The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

• TBP 289: Climbing Training Success Story - How Doug Hartman Climbed His 1st 5.13a at 46

  Doug Hartman is a 46-year-old ER doctor from Oakland, CA who is married with 2 kids. He’s a busy guy, but he figured out how to optimize his training and climbing in order to send his first 5.13a at the age of 46. He’s going to tell you the main things he learned from podcasts and coaches that helped him the most, and a little bit of advice about how to be a good spouse and parent, even when you’re a passionate climber. The two main things Doug changed about his climbing were: Resting more Following a non-linear vs linear training program He wrote up an entire description of everything he changed and how he trains so you can peruse it for yourself. >See Doug’s Training Plan  Suggestions for Menopause/Perimenopause Guests In the beginning of the episode I asked for suggestions for guests to talk about their personal experience with perimenopause/menopause and clinicians who work with people going through menopause/perimenopause. I want to educate climbers about this topic because it’s super important and impactful, and doctors are not doing a good enough job of educating us. Please email me at [email protected] with your suggestions! I’d prefer to have people on who are also climbers.  

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• TBP 288: Climbing Training Success Story Using Nutrition and Weightlifting

  This interview with Jeff Rotkoff is about how he used simple information from the TrainingBeta Podcast to improve his climbing. Jeff is a 46-year-old climber from Austin, Texas, who has a full-time job and 13-year-old twins. So he’s a busy guy. He started climbing seriously about 9 years ago and started making these changes a few years ago. He learned one nutrition tip from me and one weightlifting tip from Matt from this podcast and was able to start climbing harder, doing more in his sessions, and feeling more resilient to injury. Listen up to hear exactly what he changed and how it affected his climbing. You can find Jeff on Instagram @rotkoff.

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• TBP 287: Trip Report and Lessons Learned from Matt’s Climbing Trip to Margalef

  Coach Matt Pincus recently got back from a 7-week trip to Margalef, Spain, where he intended to get into projecting mode and climb 5.14. It turns out that the weather was rainy and he didn’t reach that goal, but he came away from the trip with some insights about his own climbing and some wisdom for the rest of us. Matt is taking a few new clients right now if you’re interested in working with him on your own climbing training. You can find his services here. More Details: What his intentions and goals were for the trip What happened on his trip How to go into a trip to have a good time even while climbing at your limit What he learned from climbing with/near some of the world’s best climbers on this trip Train with Coach Matt Pincus at Discounted Rate Matt is taking 6 new clients for a 12-week stint with him at $260 per month instead of his normal $295 per month

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• TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson

  I asked Dr. Tyler Nelson to come back on the show to talk about some new research about finger strength-to-weight ratio and climbing performance. In other words, how much does all that finger training really affect how hard you climb? He goes over some studies done on the topic and we talk about the point at which people see diminishing returns and how (if at all) training your fingers contributes, or is correlated, to injuries.

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• TBP 285: Climbing Training Success Story - From 10a to 12a in 3 Months

  I recently asked my audience to tell me about their climbing training success stories so I could present them on the podcast, and I got some good ones! This story from Lea Cleary stood out to me and I think you're going to love it. Lea is a 40-year-old woman from Boston who's been climbing for 15 years. She felt like she'd plateaued due to fear and performance anxiety. While she'd tried our Performance Route Training Program and made strength gains, she still felt very held back by her performance anxiety.  Then she started working with Coach Alex Stiger and while they continued working on her strength training and climbing technique, they really worked on the mental aspects of climbing. When she started working with Alex, the hardest sport climb she'd sent outside was one 5.10a, and after about 3 months of work together, she surprised herself by sending a 5.12a ("Fear and Loathing" in Red Rocks) in just 4 tries!  Since then she's been regularly sending 5.11's in the gym and feels way less performance anxiety and fear while climbing. She's able to regularly get herself into a flow state while climbing and just enjoy the process instead of being all revved up about performing well.  In this episode, we talk about what she and Alex did together to help her change her mindset, some tools they used, how she stays in the moment while climbing, and what helped her most with performance anxiety.  I hope this episode gives you some motivation and confidence that you, too, can overcome plateaus in your climbing with a little intentional work! 

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