In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury. Steve Smith's Bio Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training 04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training 10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance 17:03 Energy Systems Overview 24:33 Components of Energy System Training 29:56 Practical Applications of Training 33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training 39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training 47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training 50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training 01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 📥 Energy Systems Training Downloadable Resource 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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1:08:07
How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury - Joshua Foster
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers. Joshua Foster's Bio Josh Foster is a Doctor of Physical Therapy with a passion for movement and health, beginning his journey in 2001 when he discovered climbing. He has been deeply embedded in the climbing community for over 20 years, starting as a youth competitor who reached the national level in high school. He spent 12 years setting routes and more than a decade as a youth competitive climbing coach, where he facilitated success for new athletes and national champions. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 01:23 What is a meniscal injury and how do climbers get them? 06:52 Diagnosis and treatment of meniscal injuries 09:00 Rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries 22:47 Movement patterns and climbing-specific exercises 30:35 Preventing meniscal injuries in climbers Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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39:16
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39:16
Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers - Nicholas Hedges
In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries. Nicholas Hedges's Bio Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he’s not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 01:30 The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing 06:19 The Consequences of Ankle Sprains 08:02 Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction 11:33 Testing Ankle Mobility and Function 14:26 Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance 21:09 Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance 22:39 Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym 22:46 Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle 27:05 Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury 35:30 Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation 44:05 Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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50:45
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50:45
TFCC injury: A Common Wrist Pain in Climbers - Kimmy Wiley
In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and owner of Peak Pursuit Performance & Rehab- an online physical therapy and strength and conditioning service for outdoor athletes. While Kimmy has had experience in most physical therapy settings, she has found a passion for sports therapy- specifically for adventure sport athletics. During the winter months Kimmy travels with the U.S. Snowboard Halfpipe Team, helping them stay happy and healthy as they travel the world for training camps and competitions. When at home in Salt Lake, Kimmy can be found in the Wasatch Mountains climbing, snowboarding, or hiking with her dog, Nomad. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 08:41 Rehabilitation Approach 25:16 Returning to Climbing and Specific Movements 32:32 Conclusion and Contact Information Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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35:53
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35:53
Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong
This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations. Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle 04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases 06:07 Hormones and their Roles 08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase 12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle 19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase 23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases 25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners 26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases 28:35 Final Thoughts Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
The Climbing Doctor Podcast dives deep into how to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injuries. Jared Vagy interviews medical providers, coaches, climbers, and trainers to learn the best strategies to climb injury-free. Each episode covers a wide variety of topics including injury diagnosis, mobility training, strength exercises, and movement technique.
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