Episode 77: An FP Journey (Beginnings Until Gold Movements, The Early Watches)
This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themselves including a framework for how to separate generations of the brass pieces. This episode is an introduction to one of the most polarizing, eccentric, and relevant watchmakers working today (even if some of this history may have been embellished over time). Links Mentioned:Kiran Shekar’s Book:https://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=7012514&rid=12189Pierre Halimi Interview:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm1DAbRK3vAHSNY Talk:https://youtu.be/FqLEP3xNb3U?si=JQC8V0QsvcbWEbbMACM Guide:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/the-story-of-early-f-p-journePlanetary Clock for Asprey:https://img.thehourglass.com/tachyon/2024/12/FP-Journe-Savoir-Faire-Feature-Planetarium-Clock.jpgFP Journe Breguet Sympathique Clock:https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe-x-tha-for-breguet/216337https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/05/fp-journe-breguet-sympathique-no-1.htmlThe Early Tourbillon Which Sold at 8.36M:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/205675?fromSearch=fp%20journe%20tourbillonInitial Sketches of the Collection (Credit to Kiran Shekar’s Above Book):https://imgur.com/a/Toiw3XLBasel 99 With the Swine Quote:https://thejourneguy.com/the-first-question-basel-1999/‘Resonnance’ Prototype:https://monochrome-watches.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/FP-Journe-Chronometre-a-Resonance-prototype-2.jpg——Tourbillon:Souscription Number 1:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/CH080221/138Second Generation:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/189240Ruthenium:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tourbillon-remontoir-ruthenium-dial-platinumACM’s Helpful Table for Generations:https://www.acollectedman.com/cdn/shop/files/Screenshot_2021-01-28_at_11.21.47_4438df7f-939e-4bbc-bc49-50b69b162777_1728x.png—— Resonance:Pre-Production:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-4/resonance-pre-production-a-platinum-dual-time-zoneSouscription Resonance:https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/05/fp-journe-souscription-tourbillon-resonance-phillips-geneva.html4th Generation:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinumACM’s Helpful Table of Generations:https://www.acollectedman.com/cdn/shop/files/A_Collectors_Guide_early_brass_Francois_Paul_Journe_Production_Numbers_A_Collected_Man_London2_2048x2048_50855f45-0381-4ba0-b9b4-dac59dedfff9_1728x.pngParking Meter Resonance:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mop-parking-meter-fp-journe-chronometre-a-resonance—— Octa Collection (RdM):RdM Prototype:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080119/73Straight Côtes de Genève:https://thejourneguy.com/the-octa-straight-cotes-de-geneve/Fantastic Guide to the Octa Chronographe:https://watch4moi.com/f-p-journe-octa-chronographe/Calendrier:https://hairspring.com/products/octa-calendrier-pink-gold——George Daniels CS Gift:https://www.rescapement.com/blog/how-did-i-miss-that-the-chronometre-souverain-fp-journe-gifted-to-george-daniels-sold-at-auction-last-yearOsama Sendi Quote Source:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/market-insights-fp-journe-over-the-last-decadeOnly Wrist:RO QP MoP:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/162921AP QP MoP:https://hairspring.com/products/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-gold5554ST:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/166220Zeitwerk Striking Time:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/zeitwerk-striking-time/JLC Parking Meter:https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/watches/collectibles/qve85801
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Episode 76: Q&A (Pt. 6)
Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor. Links Mentioned:Modern 2 Watch Rolex Collection:Max:https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/rolex-datejust-126234-palm-motif-dial-reviewhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/southpaw-rolex-the-left-handed-gmt-gets-it-right(Erik Misspoke here, Tiger Iron not Tiger Eye)Erik:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/04/rolex-gmt-master-ii-126729vtnr-26715chnr.html (Tiger Iron)https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-two-rolex-le-mans-daytonaWatches Others Love That We Don’t Care About:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona (Max is Wrong here, obviously) https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/kurono-tokyo-watch-release-solve-flipping-problem (Both Agree)20K Value:https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/119795 (Crazy Example, Normal Dials Under 20K)https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-a384-zenith-el-primero-2https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/breguet-dial-44920-movado-celestografhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/14364-omega-seamaster-de-ville-calibre-321https://hairspring.com/products/snow-white-multichron-12-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/01-0040-418-zenith-el-primero-espada-sub-sea-moonphasehttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk5-pumpkin-1675-rolex-gmt-masterhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2998-3-lollipop-omega-speedmaster-2Journe Market Insight:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/market-insights-fp-journe-over-the-last-decade5159G:https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-perpetual-retrograde-calendar-ref-5159g-001/Best QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendarhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/166220https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1Best Watches You Haven’t Seen:https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold (Not Max’s Watch, but Same Thing)https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://langepedia.com/patek-philippe-5004acier-the-story-of-a-legend/ (Not Our Example, but Same Thing)https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658Sub Case Note: Erik Misspoke 6238, Obviously Meant 6538Only Wrist:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-chronograph-for-hodinkee-steelhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/longines/87664https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gilt-dial-pcg-1675-rolex-gmt-master
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Episode 75: Collaborations Gone Wrong
This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of the more challenging Only Wrists faced. Links Mentioned:Harry Winston FP Journe Opus 1:https://www.phillips.com/detail/harry-winston-and-fp-journe/151612Tiffany Nautilus:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080121/1TChronograph 911 GT3 (10Kish retail at launch, Erik here, misspoke):https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/porsche-design-timepieces-exclusive-vehicle-watches-chronograph-911-gt3Porsche Design Shisha 2.1:https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/p/shisha-21-P-P3800-60/4046901595906Low Hanging Fruit:https://www.swatch.com/en-us/bioceramic-scuba-fifty-fathoms.htmlSinn Bape EZM1:https://www.shucktheoyster.com/portfolio/sinn-camou-ezm1-bape-chronograph-503-2223-full-set-rare/Hublot Nespresso:https://www.nespresso.com/ch/en/hublotMoser Studio Underdog (Shouldn’t have said no one about Studio Underdog, meant most):https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-fresh-passion-fruit-collab-from-h-moser-and-studio-underd0gAP Alyx:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-official-partnership-between-audemars-piguet-and-1017-alyx-9sm-designer-matthew-williams-just-lauAP Travis Scott:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguets-collaboration-with-rapper-and-mogul-travis-scottJay-Z iPod:https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/editor's-pick/jay-z-ap-and-a-very-special-platinum-royal-oak-offshoreAP Arnold:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-offshore-25770JM QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oakRD2 Mention:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-onKAWs:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-audemars-piguet-x-kaws-royal-oak-concept-tourbillon-companionMarvel:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-panther-watch-live-pics-pricingLVMH Rexhep:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-rexhep-rexhepi-lvrr01-chronographe-a-sonnerieLVMH Voutilainen:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/hands-on-louis-vuitton-x-voutilainen-lvkv-02-gmr-6.htmlH Travel Clock:https://loupethis.com/auctions/hodinkee-eight-day-travel-clockIWC Top Gun:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-the-iwc-top-gun-miramar-chronographRomain Jerome:https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/08/hands-on-with-the-rj-romain-jerome-super-mario-bros.htmlOnly Wrist:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytonahttps://hairspring.com/products/3705-fliegerchronograph-ceramichttps://hummerwatches.nethttps://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/ffchttps://hairspring.com/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel
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Episode 74: James Blake
Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and far more.Links Mentioned:15500ST:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15500ST.OO.1220ST.01.htmlBerneron:https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-sienna-yellow-goldCollection Building:Bowie:https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/david-bowie-longines-agassiz-watchhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-platinumhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/karl-lagerfeld-royal-oak-phillips-auction-2022Lennon:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-wild-mostly-complete-story-of-john-lennons-lost-patek-philippe-2499https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumenhttps://hairspring.com/products/5004r-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds-chronograph-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steelJames Hetfield:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6541-rolex-milgausshttps://mrwatchley.com/products/breguet-empire-from-1973-with-extract-from-archivehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-14270-everything-you-need-to-knowEric Clapton:https://www.windvintage.com/abercrombie-fitch-reference-2447sf-unpolishedhttps://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/the-rolex-albino-daytonahttps://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2009/12/bb-king-greatest-blues-guitarist-in.html#gsc.tab=0John Mayer:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oakhttps://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/independent-watchmakers/1004114281-raul-pages-when-the-tortoise-becomes-a-hare.htmlhttps://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/4100Daft Punk:https://monochrome-watches.com/review-otsuka-lotec-7-5-jumping-hour-watch-indepdenent-watchmaking-japan-camera-lens-inspired-availability-price/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/186-0013-omega-equinoxe-reversohttps://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steelSwift:https://hairspring.com/products/elegante-40-factory-12-rows-of-diamonds-titalythttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/153613https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/marketcheck/rise-of-the-rolex-daytona-john-mayerDave:https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-traveller-globe-night-bluehttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/romain-gauthier-logical-one-titaniumhttps://mrwatchley.com/products/chopard-l-u-c-1860-yellow-gold3 Questions:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatic-blasted-goldhttps://quillandpad.com/2022/12/06/bulgari-by-gerald-genta-octo-quadri-retro-chronograph-from-2011-embodying-the-past-and-a-possible-future-of-a-once-imperious-haute-horlogerie-leader/https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-tourbillon-black-onyxhttps://www.alange-soehne.com/mo-en/timepieces/richard-lange/richard-lange-pour-le-merite/richard-lange-pour-le-merite-in-750-white-gold-260-028https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubileehttps://www.matthewbaininc.com/product-page/cartier-tank-reverso-dual-time-zone-1970-shttps://www.the1916company.com/blog/a-revolution-in-design-the-de-bethune-dbs.htmlhttps://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-de-bethune-dbd-evergreen-digitale-in-line-calendar-jumping-hour-specs-price/Only Wrist:https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-1665-sea-dweller-mk1-patent-pending-twins-/732.964148.6706998/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burgundy-dial-25720pt-audemars-piguet-star-wheel-2https://hairspring.com/products/140-021-zeitwerk-first-generation-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tritium-dial-5065j-patek-philippe-aquanaut
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Episode 73: The Vintage Rolex Collector’s Glossary (WTF Is a Musketeer)
Have you ever what a Musketeer Dial is? Does Millerighe sound more like a sneeze than a pusher to you? What does PPDRSD stand for, are cherry Daytonas a real thing, and is PCG the same as Cornino? This and all the other terms you see frequently in vintage sports Rolex described as quickly as possible in this week’s episode. It’s that simple. Links Mentioned:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/exclusive-the-pinnacle-of-holy-grails-a-patek-1518-in-steel-is-coming-to-auction-in-novemberDaytona:Lemon:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-2JPS:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jps-paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytonaOyster Sotto / RCO:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/156464Musketeer Dial:https://italianwatchspotter.com/i-quadranti-moschettieri-nei-daytona-paul-newman/?lang=enOyster Split:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/rolex-oyster-split-the-legendary-gold-daytona-6263-6265Floating Big Red:https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-floating-big-red-daytona-ref-6263Solo Dial:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-rolex-daytona-6240‘Blue’ Daytona:https://rarebirds.de/product/rolex-6239-blue-daytona/‘Cherry’ Daytona:https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-cherry-red-daytona-reference-6239-w-extra-braceletDouble Swiss:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/le-mans-daytona-double-swiss-underline-referenceMillerighe / P301 / P302:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/historical-reviews-of-iconic-watches/retrospective-complete-de-la-rolex-daytonaFloating Cosmograph:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold4-Liner:https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-daytona-steel-16520-white-mk2-4-liner-dial-w-626Patrizzi:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/178794Inverted 6:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/168APH:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/196430?Crown Guard Evolution:https://www.aircooltime.com/p/rolex-submariner-gilt-era-crown-guardEagle Beak vs Cornino?:https://le-monde-edmond.com/eagle-beak-vs-cornino/Submariner:Red Depth:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/191745Underline:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/148173Neat Font:https://www.windvintage.com/blog/collectors-guide-rolex-submariner-reference-5512Exclamation:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/116116Kissing 4 / Long 5:https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-fat-font-inserts-explored-mk1-through-mk3/732.849983.5769208/Bart Simpson:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bart-simpson-5512-rolex-submarinerSea-Dweller:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-rolex-sea-dwellerRail Dial:https://hairspring.com/products/1665-great-white-sea-dweller-steelPP DRSD:https://www.drsd.com/watch-info/double-red-seadweller/patent-pending-drsd.htmlGMT-Master:Concorde:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/concorde-1675-rolex-gmt-masterFuchsia:https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/rolex-fuchsia-bezel-gmt-master-reference-1675Nipple Dial:https://gmtmaster1675.com/mark-1-brown/Radial Dial:https://gmtmaster1675.com/mark-3/Explorer:Long Hand:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-pointsSpace-Dweller:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/192943Honeycomb:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorerFrog Foot:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/frog-foot-dial-1016-rolex-explorer1655:Straight Hand:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-straight-hand-1655-rolex-explorer-iiAlbino:https://10pastten.com/watch/rolex-explorer-ii-albino-freccione/16550 Cream:https://hairspring.com/products/16550-cream-panna-dial-explorer-ii-steelOnly Wrist:https://le-monde-edmond.com/rolex-1831-the-king-of-day-dates/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texano
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