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  • Hairspring

    Episode 93: Winners & Blunders 2026

    29.04.2026 | 1 godz. 3 min.
    Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider. 

    Links Mentioned: 

    Winners:

    Streamliner 34:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm

    Streamliner QP:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-moser-streamliner-perpetual-concept

    Alternate:

    https://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel

    Saxonia Annual 36:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-downsizes-the-saxonia-annual-calendar-to-36mm

    Alternate:

    https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold

    Lange 1 Tourbillon QP Lumen:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-lange-1-tourbillon-perpetual-calendar-lumen

    Precious OP:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-goes-full-solid-gold-in-34mm-and-28mm-ref-124205-and-276208

    Alternate:

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch

    Enamel Daytona:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-126502-in-rolesium-with-enamel-dial-and-grey-bezel

    Alternate:

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/128046

    VC:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-2500v

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-cardinal-points

    Alternate:

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/225008

    RRCHF:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rexhep-rexhepi-chronograph-flyback-rrchf

    Alternate:

    https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold

    Blunders:

    6105G:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6105g

    Alternate:

    https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2577r-calatrava-enamel-dial-pink-gold

    https://hairspring.com/products/anywhere-aurora-titanium

    IWC Vertical Drive:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-heads-for-space-with-the-pilots-venturer-vertical-drive-with-spaceflight-qualification-from-vast

    https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/about-us/unvrs/freak-2001

    https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/jaeger-lecoultre-amvox-q192t440-10-10-jlc-yzr0es

    Alternate:

    https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-66-omega-speedmaster

    Cartier:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-celebrates-10-editions-of-prive-with-six-new-editions

    Alternate:

    https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2396-cartier-cpcp-monopoussoir

    JLC Master Control Chronometre:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-chronometre-a-new-integrated-bracelet-sport-watch-in-three-model

    Alternate:

    https://www.berneron.ch/quantieme-annuel-black

    https://hairspring.com/products/25654st-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-salmon-dial-steel

    Only Wrist:

    Grahame Fowler:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-grahame-fowler

    MN:

    https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel

    Langematik:

    https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-langematik/
  • Hairspring

    Episode 92: Pub Trivia

    22.04.2026 | 1 godz. 10 min.
    Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor. 

    Links Mentioned: 

    Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/george-daniels-so-l12313/lot.21.html

    Scott Carpenter History:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/scott-carpenters-breitling-cosmonaute-the-first-swiss-wristwatch-worn-in-space

    Artemis II Watches:

    https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/watches-artemis-ii-moon-omega-speedmaster-breiting

    Walter Lange:

    https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-homage-to-walter-lange/

    Round Pusher Vichet 2499:

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/12/patek-philippe-2499-vichet-case-round-pushers.html

    Theft of the Marie Antoinette:

    https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-time-thief-who-stole-106-rare-clocks-in-a-daring-heist-180981979/

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naaman_Diller

    Rolex QP:

    https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/

    https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-prototype-oysterquartz-lot-329-378 (Most Recent Sale) 

    *Modified Datejust QP was allegedly Muller not Dubuis, we messed up!

    1921 Vacheron True Heritage:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-original-vacheron-constantin-american-1921-from-1919

    New 1921:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose

    Reconstructed in Traditional Method: 

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-piece-unique-vacheron-is-proof-that-sometimes-they-do-make-em-like-they-used-to

    HR Ekegren:

    https://obwcollection.com/products/h-r-ekegren-minute-repeater-wristwatch

    1735:

    https://www.watchprosite.com/blancpain/more-on-the-iconic-blancpain-1735/4.1185931.9517651/

    Piaget Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie:

    https://www.phillips.com/article/158023235/when-fp-journe-worked-with-piaget

    4113:

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/133343?fromSearch=4113

    Offshore:

    https://www.phillips.com/article/37249232/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-the-man-who-made-it-and-the-watch-that-honours-it

    Carl Jung:

    https://monochrome-watches.com/a-most-dangerous-watch-company-iwc-and-carl-jung/

    IWC 3519:

    https://revolutionwatch.com/special-service-the-iwc-porsche-design-ref-3519-amag/

    The Most Confusing Broad Arrow:

    https://www.casowatches.com/catalogo/seamaster-ref-14755-61/

    Roubert-Houdin:

    https://www.horloger.net/purchase-sales/mystery-clocks/74-robert-houdin-triple-mystery-clock/

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-enchanting-allure-of-cartiers-mystery-clocks

    6062 Cosmograph Ad:

    https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2012/03/rolex-cosmograph-moonphase-1957.html#/page/2

    5738/1R:

    https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-1r-001

    Only Wrist:

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/125546

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-1958

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-past-present-and-future-of-the-rolex-milgauss

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189354?fromSearch=1019
  • Hairspring

    Episode 91: Enamel 101

    10.04.2026 | 1 godz. 6 min.
    A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. 

    Links Mentioned: 

    Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs:

    https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/

    Jean Toutin:

    https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/

    Miklos Merczel JLC:

    https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/

    Daniel Quare:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare

    Grand Feu:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans

    https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1

    https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241

    Cloisonné:

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html

    https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category

    https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc

    Champlevé:

    https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/

    https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial

    https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001

    Flinqué:

    https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html

    https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum

    Engraved Enamel:

    https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china

    Favorites:

    2526:

    https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold

    6101:

    https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/

    2523 Gobbi:

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html

    2699 Constellation:

    https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch

    3428P:

    https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

    1415:

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415

    5231:

    https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001

    Only Wrist:

    https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/

    https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895
  • Hairspring

    Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen

    17.03.2026 | 43 min.
    This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy. 

    Links Mentioned: 

    Voutilainen’s Early Story:

    https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainen

    The 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve:

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.html

    Comblémine SA:

    https://comblemine.ch

    Observatoire:

    https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1

    Urban Jürgensen Relaunch:

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025

    Pratt Oval Pocket Watch:

    https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded

    Watch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently:

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853

    Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person:

    https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygold

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case

    The 3 Watch Roll:

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.html

    https://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/

    https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.html

    Only Wrist:

    https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold

    https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel

    https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible

    https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1
  • Hairspring

    Episode 89: Retroactive Bidding Circa 2016

    11.03.2026 | 1 godz. 28 min.
    Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise. 

    Links Mentioned: 

    https://www.watchpro.com/billions-wiped-off-the-value-of-breitling/

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-rolex-and-cartier-in-another-league-a-deep-dive-on-whos-making-gains-and-whos-feeling-pain-in-t

    10K and Under: 

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993005

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/100180

    https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/quick-study-omega-seamaster-chronographs

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.52.html

    https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/iwc-ref-r-816-ad-lot-302-11

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/99735

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-lecoultre/98071

    50K and Under:

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5992999

    https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/a-lange-sohne-lot-300-164

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.275.html

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003298

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/101404

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028350

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.7.html

    200K and Under:

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003385

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028355

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.272.html

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/watches-l16053/lot.140.html

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/97620

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/97159

    Unlimited:

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028459

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/100888

    https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.317.html

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97683

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97817

    Wildcard:

    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5976969?ldp_breadcrumb=back

    https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101552

    Only Wrist:

    https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel

    https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-005-ultraman-omega-seamaster-321

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O Hairspring

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.
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