Hairspring

Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we have the big ones, our favorites and the ‘Absolute Cock-Up of the Year’ Grand Prizes. Plus, an Only Wrist of an oil rig worker who likes dressing to the nines. Links Mentioned:Most Beautiful Watch Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mbandfs-special-project-onehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-in-depth-roger-smith-ref-6https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-handwerkskunstThe Ugliest Watch Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-speedmaster-moonphase-meteoritehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-x-fragment-design-glassbox-carrera-is-a-masterclass-in-collaborationhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dennison-leans-into-peak-70s-glam-and-design-with-new-ald-dual-timehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtifhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-chronographe-2075bhThe Greatest Calibre Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/berneron-unveils-details-of-second-collection-the-quantieme-annuelhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-1815-tourbillon-in-platinum-now-with-a-black-grand-feu-enamel-dialhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825https://www.breguet.com/250/en/experimentale-1/The Greatest Value Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolexs-new-pastel-oyster-perpetual-dials-a-soothing-evolution-of-colorhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-a-lange-sohne-1815-34mmhttps://baltic-watches.com/en/collections/watcheshttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-omega-speedmaster-first-omega-in-spaceThe Greatest Depreciator Nominations:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/twenty4/7340-1r-010https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-reveals-its-most-complicated-chiming-watch-to-date-with-the-luc-grand-strikehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographshttps://watchesbysjx.com/2025/07/seiko-credor-goldfeather-tourbillon-gbcf999.htmlWorst Ad of 2025 Nominations:https://imgur.com/a/yteGrrI (Phillips Horse Thing)https://imgur.com/a/pD9Prfa (Urban Jurgensen)New Independent Entrant Nominations:https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.htmlBrand That Evolved Most Nominations:https://www.berneron.chThe Absolute Cock-Up Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dwellerhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographsGrand Prize Nominations:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-brings-back-the-lange-1-daymatic-with-a-honeygold-touchOnly Wrist:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/87538https://www.europeanwatch.com/watch/audemars-piguet-vzss-vintage-dress-watch-vzss-rare-18k-yg-manual-62560https://mimandcroket.com/project/rare-audemars-piguet-cal-13vzss/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorerhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1-of-26-london-racing-green-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-1931

Erik & Max are back to answer your wide-ranging questions in the seventh installment of what is becoming a cornerstone of the podcast. Questions range from a new ‘holy trinity’ we’d select, what neo-vintage references collectors should be paying attention to yet aren’t, Langes on a budget, best Blümlein IWCs, our favored Cartier shapes, and far more. Links Mentioned:Hajime Asaoka:https://www.phillips.com/detail/hajime-asaoka/194815Atelier Du Chronometrie:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-atelier-de-chronometrie-adc17Yosuke Sekiguchi:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/yosuke-sekiguchi-primvereFrodsham:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/charles-frodsham-double-impulse-chronometer-2Smith:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/open-dial-roger-w-smith-series-2Stephen McDonnell’s Talk:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1xQWripjPI130:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tiffany-dial-patek-philippe-130-chronographDato QP:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-datograph-guide/datograph-perpetual/Dato QP Tourbillon:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-036-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon5960:https://watchesbysjx.com/2014/12/up-close-with-the-patek-philippe-ref-59601a-chronograph-annual-calendar-in-steel.html25668PT:https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum43032:https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum25636 RO:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/25636ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-skeleton25657 MoP:https://hairspring.com/products/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-goldMercator:https://www.phillips.com/article/135703213/vacheron-constantin-mercator-history-guide25881:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-2588147100:https://hairspring.com/products/47100-chronograph-skeleton-platinum14802ST:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubileeEngraved Enamel Primer (We’ll Try To Do One Soon):https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never2526 Dial Manufacture:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadransBudget Lange:https://mrwatchley.com/products/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-yellow-gold-102-0011815 Up/Down (Gangreserve, not Gangenreserve, Erik Misspoke):https://hairspring.com/products/221-027-1815-up-down-first-generation-white-goldJust The Greatest Annual Calendar:https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold4-Digit to Swim:https://hairspring.com/products/5512-submariner-gilt-dial-steelBlumlein IWC:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bundeswehr-3501-iwc-porsche-design-ocean-2000https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3508-iwc-ingenieur-500k-a-mhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5240-iwc-portuguese-minute-repeaterGPHG:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/how-fair-is-the-gphg-a-closer-look-at-the-oscars-of-watchmakingFont:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658Parmigiani 2840:https://hairspring.com/products/2840-toric-tourbillon-platinum3670A:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/2094293651J:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6235789Voutilainen Zenith:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/zenith-x-voutilainen-x-phillips-calibre-135-oCartier:https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/207628https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tortue-monopoussoir-prive-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2610e-cartier-cpcp-tortue-minute-repeaterOnly Wrist:https://collectability.com/learn/collectability-in-depth-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-ref-3940/https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25686

A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main references you might expect and their significant points such as 1526, 2497/2438, 3448, and 3450. But if you’ve ever wondered about the 96 QP, 1527, 1591, 3449, or any of the oddball piece uniques, they’re all in here too. We couldn’t wait for leap year to release this, hopefully you’ll forgive us. 3940 and on will be in an upcoming part two. Links Mentioned:Thomas Mudge Perpetual Calendar:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/john-harrison-enduring-discovery-l16055/lot.28.html97975:https://revolutionwatch.com/1925-patek-97975-the-worlds-first-perpetual-calendar-wristwatch/96 QP:https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-96-lot-31-79Imperial 96 Calendar:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-rare-complicated-patek-calatrava-you-might-not-have-known-about-is-coming-up-for-auction1526:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/casa-masson-dial-1526-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-pink-goldCoca Cola Watch:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-owned-by-the-founder-of-coca-cola-and-other-ultra-cool-pateks-now-on-exhibit-at-tBriggs Cunningham Steel:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5065258Magnifying Glass:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/casa-masson-dial-1526-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-pink-goldCasemaker Keys:https://collectability.com/learn/the-key-to-master-case-makers-for-patek-philippe/1527:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5309213https://www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Patek-Philippe-Rare-1527-Perpetual-Calendar-18k-Rose-Gold.jpg1591:https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-1591-first-waterproof-perpetual-calendar/https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-patek-philippe-an-extremely-important-and-unique-4982796/?2497 & 2438:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-22438:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/913273449:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-54934183448:https://revolutionwatch.com/padellone-patek-philippes-most-elegant-perpetual-calendar-the-3448/Senza Luna:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-3448-senza-luna-in-depthUnique 3448:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2008/important-watches-ge0804/lot.214.html3450:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/180883Only Watch:570G:https://hairspring.com/products/570g-calatrava-white-gold565 Crown:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/2139802526:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/first-series-2526-patek-philippe-calatrava5040:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040p-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar

Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange came from, views on collecting philosophy, and what watches should be paired with various vehicles Tom has loved or hated. Plus, the 3 guest questions you all tune in for. This was a blast to record, a special thanks to Tom & crew. Tom Segura:https://www.instagram.com/seguratom/Links Mentioned:The Garth Brooks Saga:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOybgckmwZUThe JRE In Question:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX5QV_q4iAMRichard Lange Jumping Seconds:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-richard-lange/richard-lange-jumping-seconds/John Mayer Royal Oak:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oakTuscan QP:https://hairspring.com/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinumEastern Arabic Day-Date:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/eastern-arabic-dial-1806-rolex-day-dateRessence:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-ressence-type-5Trilobe:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/review-trilobe-une-folle-journeeGarrick:https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-garrick-s3-mk2-openworked-independent-watchmaking-calibre-ut-g04-price-specs/RM66:https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-66-flying-tourbillonChronometre Optimum:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-fp-journe-chronometre-optimumUN Freak:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-ulysse-nardin-freak-s-nomadPN:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/221654570:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/2190631463:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/204543SBGA211:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-spring-drive-snowflake-reviewLinesport Centigraphe:https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/linesport-collection/centigraphe5470P:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-ref-5470p-001-110th-second-monopusher-chronograph-is-a-fast-beat-first6263:https://hairspring.com/products/6263-daytona-tropical-dial-steelTourbillon Souverain:https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/tourbillon-souverainOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-souverain-havana-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steelhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seven-new-patek-philippe-aquanaut-and-aquanaut-luce-models

This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong. Links Mentioned:Berneron:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-goldLimited Odysseus Refs:Titanium:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-odysseus-titanium-review-2022Odysseus Chronograph:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraphOdysseus Honeygold:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldChopard LUC Quattro Mark IV:https://monochrome-watches.com/first-look-chopard-l-u-c-luc-quattro-mark-iv-mkiv-ice-blue-platinum-micro-rotor-qualite-fleurier-specs-price-live-pics/1860 (Tangentially Discussed):https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/luc-1860-steel6196P:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generationSimon Brette:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-simon-brette-chronometre-aristans-roseRRCC2:https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-twoWith Gems:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-rubySequential Chronograph:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-mbf-lm-sequential-flyback2941:https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.htmlJLC Reverso Tribute:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2Tamara Ralph:https://revolutionwatch.com/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-concept-flying-tourbillon-tamara-ralph/Aquanaut Annual:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-new-patek-philippe-aquanauts-including-a-flyback-chronograph-and-aquanaut-luce-both-in-rose-goFP Journe Quantième Perpétuel:https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/f-p-journe-quantieme-perpetuel-boutique-edition-reviewLange Repeater QP:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisonsCalatrava Pilots:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5524g-calatrava-pilot-travel-timehttps://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5520rg-001https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5522a-limited-edition-pilots-calatravaNSO:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-programLand-Dweller:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dwellerGlassbox Carrera:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-39mm-its-time-to-care-about-the-carrera-againOnly Wrist:https://www.onthedash.com/chronograph/autavia-1163t-siffert-chronomatic/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar