Episode 69: Royal Oak, The Most Influential AP (The Story So Far)
Some will tell you that Audemars Piguet have become the Royal Oak company. But why is this sole model so damn successful? How did one watch come to invent and subsequently take over a market segment? What are the models worth paying attention to and how are collections structured? This is the story of the Royal Oak, from two years before the 5402’s release straight through to ceramics and RD#2. Links Mentioned:AP Chronicle Early Years Story and Stats:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/birth-of-an-iconIntegrated 2499:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jay-z-patek-24995182 and 5179:https://www.instagram.com/p/CzZbEHhJWSJ/https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/7_5Genta’s First Sketch:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/gerald-genta-icon-of-time-3/original-prototype-design-of-the-audemars-piguetTapisserie and How It’s Made:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/guillochage-tapisserieSome Ads:https://www.adpatina.com/products/1974-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-ref-5402-steel-at-price-of-gold-advertisementA Series 5402 ‘AP Down’:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/8D Series 5402 ‘AP Up’:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-part-i/d-series-jumbo-royal-oak-ref-5402st-stainless5402BC:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080116/198Midsized Evolution Guide:https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-how-to-identify-royal-oak-ref-4100-14332-14486-14700-1479014790 Guide:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collectors-guide-audemars-piguet-1479014802 Jumbo Royal Oak ‘Jubilee’:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubilee25572 ‘The Owl’:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/the-owl-25572ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-day-date5548:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-5548-yellow-gold-1Early Royal Oak QP History:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-in-depthhttps://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/Royal-Oak-Calendar-watches-1983-1996https://www.adpatina.com/products/1994-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-advertisementSpecial Dials in the RO QP:https://hairspring.com/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinumhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/17https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25636MoP Dual Time:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/78The Start of the Offshore:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/birth-of-the-offshore‘The Beast’:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/a-very-tropical-early-offshore-25721st-the-beastKasparov:https://hairspring.com/products/25860st-tropical-dial-kasparov-royal-oak-chronograph-steel15002:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/8215202 Generational Differences:https://www.watchprosite.com/audemars-piguet/first-gen-15202-royal-oak-jumbo/3.1554086.15251221/16202:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-reference-16202-jumbo56175TT:https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/about/1990s-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-championship25829TR:https://www.gioielleriabonanno.it/en/audemars-piguet-il-tantalio-conquista-il-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ref-25829tr/Frosted Gold:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-frosted-gold-hands-onRD#2:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-onhttps://revolutionwatch.com/walking-the-ultra-thin-line-the-audemars-piguet-rd2/Only Wrist:https://www.instagram.com/p/DL4dfvBT0fD/https://hairspring.com/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel(The only Urwerk calendar is a pocket watch, it turns out)https://www.urwerk.com/collections/historical-pieces/ur-1001
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Episode 68: Q&A (Pt. 5)
Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from guilty pleasures to asking if the independent space is too crowded. Plus, what is the best QP ever made? Why isn’t shaped Patek popular? What’s the next hot indie? This and much more, plus a great question from Max’s mom. Links Mentioned:Lange Error:https://youtu.be/HGlz937qkuw?si=y_-wOUQp2lH8SDtD&t=4206Guilty Pleasures:https://thekeystone.com/products/rolex-yellow-gold-rainbow-daytona-ref-116598https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-iwc-pilots-watch-41-automatic-top-gun-lake-tahoehttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-concept-laptimer-michael-schumacherhttps://www.watchprosite.com/audemars-piguet/review-the-new-ap-royal-oak-laptimer-michael-shumacher/3.997188.7008998/Breguet Magnetic Pivots:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-classique-chronometrie-7727Self-Taught Independents:https://www.phillips.com/article/123122036/hajime-asaoka-auction-tourbillon-tsunamihttps://monochrome-watches.com/interview-independent-watchmaker-chinese-china-logan-kuan-rao-orca-iceberg-wuwei-equal-push-escapement/https://www.gq.com/story/jn-shapiro-made-in-america-watchLapis Breguet LF:https://www.instagram.com/p/Ct5XYjARV49/Jade FPJ:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080222/10Best QP Bar None Conversation:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080222/10https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080221/122https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendarShaped Patek Vs Cartier:https://collectability.com/learn/gilbert-albert-the-genius-designer-who-changed-the-face-of-watchmaking/https://www.gq.com/gallery/best-watches-2023-golden-globeshttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/21Under-Represented Independents:https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/a-collector-s-guide-to-laurent-ferrierhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillonhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/double-balancier-convexe-s2-titaniumhttps://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/balancier-contemporain-red-goldSquare High Watchmaking:https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-new-cartier-tank-cintree-limited-edition-in-platinum-live-picsResurrection:https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-1Wood:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sequoia-wood-dial-1803-rolex-day-dateCarreras:https://www.windvintage.com/heuer-carrera-eggshell-dial-reference-3647shttps://www.acollectedman.com/products/heuer-carrera-2447snd-steelhttp://www.chronocentric.com/forums/chronotrader/index.cgi?page=1;md=read;id=74662https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2447nst-heuer-carrera-second-execution-3Women in Watches:https://www.instagram.com/its.cara.time/https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-daryn-schnipperhttps://www.instagram.com/a.dose.of.time/https://www.instagram.com/lunglungthun/https://www.instagram.com/aytystyle/https://www.instagram.com/oldwatchlady/https://www.youtube.com/@BrittPearceWatcheshttps://www.instagram.com/malaikamc/https://collectability.com/press/tania-edwards-the-woman-who-taught-a-generation-about-patek-philippe/https://www.instagram.com/dimepiece.co/Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-perpetual-5270-titanium-green-unique-piece-children-action-2022https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/69
The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what are some trends that we’re not paying enough attention to right now? Links Mentioned:Lange on a Nato:https://www.instagram.com/lange.on.a.nato/Omega’s Bronze Gold:https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/seamaster/heritage-models/seamaster-300/seamaster-300-bronze-gold/productEast Germany’s Indestructible ‘Superfest’ Glass:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEvBpjCOBu0Cartier-Restored Cintrée:https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/HK080221/829Collection Building (in Order of Discussion):20K:SBGW033:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sbgw033-grand-seiko-130th-anniversary-firstSBGM221:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/my-trusty-old-grand-seiko-is-still-shockingly-accurate2500:https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-rose-gold-calatrava-watch-ref-2500165.024:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/big-triangle-165-024-omega-seamaster-3001803/9 (Just Imagine This on a Strap):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/arabic-disc-1803-9-rolex-day-date73443T:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/exotic-dial-73443t-heuer-camaro-datoE335 Black Dial:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e335-lecoultre-valjoux-72-chronograph222100:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/222100-1-universal-geneve-tri-compax200K:Empire:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches/empire-a-rare-yellow-gold-automatic-wristwatchL. Leroy & Cie:https://www.phillips.com/detail/leroy/CH080515/2493800J:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/patek-philippe-nautilus-3800j-yellow-goldMN:https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel16520:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytona6239:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/20612725820PT:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum1815 Chronograph:https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-goldTrends We’re Not Paying Enough Attention To:https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/26/fashion/watches-workforce-switzerland.htmlDavid Candaux:https://www.phillips.com/detail/david-candaux/217670Suzanne Rohr:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/under-the-hammer-watch-auctions-inOnly Wrist:384.032:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/saxonia-moon-phase/saxonia-moon-phase-in-750-pink-gold-384-0323417:https://hairspring.com/products/3417-amagnetic-steelE168 Geophysic:https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/CH080218/134
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Episode 66: A. Lange One (The Story of Rebirth 1994-2000)
This is the story of how Glashütte came to be, once again, the epicenter of German watchmaking. This week, Erik & Max do their best to debrief the 1994-2000 rise of A. Lange & Söhne, and particularly to tell the story of the ambitious, hard-working folks involved. This episode targets key moments in the manufacture's rise to success, central tenets to the brand’s identity, many quotes, and several fun facts you might have missed along the way. Links Mentioned:Blümlein Retrospective, with Büsser’s Quote:https://monochrome-watches.com/20-years-later-remembering-gunter-blumlein-his-impact-on-watchmaking-industry-iwc-jaeger-lecoultre-lange-sohne-in-depth/Kurt Klaus Quote on Günter’s Belief in his QP:https://quillandpad.com/2017/01/31/life-times-lange-sohne-re-founder-walter-lange/A Bit on the Relationship with IWC:https://quillandpad.com/2021/10/01/history-of-watchmaking-gunter-blumlein-a-lange-sohne-jaeger-lecoultre-iwc-and-the-lmh-supergroup/Retrospective on Walter Langer:https://quillandpad.com/2017/01/31/life-times-lange-sohne-re-founder-walter-lange/Reinhard Meis Interview:https://deployant.com/reinhart-meis-the-almost-forgotten-hero-in-the-creation-of-the-lange-design-dna/Das Tourbillon:https://www.amazon.com/Das-Tourbillon-Faszination-Uhrentechnik/dp/3766710591Interview that Talks a Bit About LMH Company (Not LVMH!):https://people.timezone.com/msandler/TZInterviews/Blumlein/Blumlein.htmlSome photographs from the the 1994 Launch:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/twenty-years-ago-today-a-lange-shne-was-re-bornLange 1 Background:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange1/https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/lange-1-modern-iconLange 1 Golden Ratio Short:https://www.facebook.com/PISA1940/videos/lange-1-golden-ratio/2149627791986710/(Erik said Genevan Striping, not meant Glashütte-ean striping, sorry)Our Favorite Early Lange 1s:Darth:https://hairspring.com/products/101-035-darth-lange-1-platinum101.026:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/NY080119/62112.021:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange1/lange-1a-112-021/(Open Caseback, Misspoke)101.002:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080122/277Arkade:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-arkade/Saxonia:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-langematik/Pour le Mérite:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/Anthony De Haas Quote:https://www.phillips.com/article/87714395/a-lange-sohne-three-great-stories-behind-three-great-watchesAn Example of an Integrated Wellendorff:https://hairspring.com/products/151-025-stealth-lange-1-platinumAn Example on a Non-Integrated Wellendorff:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/101-325-lange-1-stealth-pt-on-wellendorff-bracelet1999 Datograph Release:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/datograph-collectors-guidehttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-datograph-guide/https://www.watchprosite.com/editors-picks/lange-s-tourbo-team/10.628746.3939091/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/dufourgraph-403-031-a-lange-sohne-datographOnly Wrist:Erik:https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.htmlhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-1815-rattrapante-perpetual-calendar-handwerkskunst-introducinghttps://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/139Max:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/139https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/209769https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2022-concorso-d-eleganza-villa-d-este-414-049-a-lange-sohne-1815-chronograph
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Episode 65: Crowd-Sourced Future Classics
In this qasi-Q&A format, we asked you for recommendations on watches that might be the future of collecting. Some replies were quite out there, some were unexpected, and many were rather great. This week, we give on thoughts on what you all are marking as the future classics. Links Mentioned:Berneron:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-first-look-at-the-berneron-annualChris Ward: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-christopher-ward-open-balanceCzapek: https://monochrome-watches.com/czapek-antarctique-tourbillon-review-video-specs-price/LF Sport Auto:https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titaniumGrand Sport Tourbillon:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-laurent-ferrier-grand-sport-tourbillon-now-with-an-extra-side-of-steel1655 Mk1:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-straight-hand-1655-rolex-explorer-iiFirst Generation Datograph:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/first-generation-403-035-a-lange-sohne-datographFirst Generation 1815 Chronograph:https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-goldTransitional Refs:https://hairspring.com/products/6262-cosmograph-daytona-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/16550-cream-panna-dial-explorer-ii-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/165-014-omega-seamaster-300126509 Daytona and White Gold in General:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/126509-rolex-cosmograph-daytona 1019:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-1019-rolex-milgauss-2Cern Dial:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cern-1019-rolex-milgaussGloss Dial:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080217/196Patek Philippe Modern World Timers:https://www.phillips.com/article/60176722/patek-philippe-world-time-guide-current-new-2000sZenith:https://hairspring.com/products/a386-el-primero-steelhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/a3817-zenith-el-primero-3https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cover-girl-a3818-zenith-el-primero-2LUC Greats:https://hairspring.com/products/luc-qf-revolution-steelhttps://hairspring.com/products/luc-1860-steelChristian Klings:https://www.phillips.com/detail/christian-klings/196592Moritz Grossmann:https://hairspring.com/products/tremblage-steelLang & Heyne:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lang-heyne-konig-albert-von-sachsenLange 1s:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-goldSIHH Santos:https://specialdial.com/products/cartier-santos-galbee-lm-ref-2319-sihh-asia-limited-edition-box-papersOcto Finissimo:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-bulgari-octo-finnissimo-ultra-tourbillon6538 Four Liner:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080216/376200 King:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/king-sub-6200-rolex-submarinerMore Unusual Independents:https://hairspring.com/products/lm101-for-hodinkee-steelhttps://www.urwerk.com/collections/ur-chronometry/amcSAS 216570:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sas-216570-rolex-explorer-iiBlack Bay Black Rose:https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/tudor-heritage-black-bay-black-79220n116600:https://monochrome-watches.com/opinion-why-rolex-sea-dweller-116600-is-the-best-modern-rolex-dive-watch-you-can-get/Max:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-vintage-heuer-carrera-car-and-driverhttps://www.phillips.com/article/19240144/the-heuer-monaco-dark-lord-ref-740303nErik:https://quillandpad.com/2021/05/15/behind-the-lens-vintage-patek-philippe-reference-3450j/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-dial-18039-rolex-day-date-white-goldhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-ownOnly Wrist:The Central Watch in the Second Photo Down Here (Carbon Tourbillon):https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-tadao-ando-limited-edition-ref-103534-introducingOdysseus:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold
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