Hairspring

A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. 

Links Mentioned: 

Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs:

https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/

Jean Toutin:

https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/

Miklos Merczel JLC:

https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/

Daniel Quare:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare

Grand Feu:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans

https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1

https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241

Cloisonné:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33

https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html

https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category

https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc

Champlevé:

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001

Flinqué:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum

Engraved Enamel:

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china

Favorites:

2526:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold

6101:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/

2523 Gobbi:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html

2699 Constellation:

https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch

3428P:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

1415:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415

5231:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001

Only Wrist:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895

This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy. 

Links Mentioned: 

Voutilainen’s Early Story:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainen

The 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.html

Comblémine SA:

https://comblemine.ch

Observatoire:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1

Urban Jürgensen Relaunch:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025

Pratt Oval Pocket Watch:

https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded

Watch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853

Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygold

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case

The 3 Watch Roll:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.html

https://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.html

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1

Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise. 

Links Mentioned: 

https://www.watchpro.com/billions-wiped-off-the-value-of-breitling/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-rolex-and-cartier-in-another-league-a-deep-dive-on-whos-making-gains-and-whos-feeling-pain-in-t

10K and Under: 

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993005

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/100180

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/quick-study-omega-seamaster-chronographs

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.52.html

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/iwc-ref-r-816-ad-lot-302-11

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/99735

https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-lecoultre/98071

50K and Under:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5992999

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/a-lange-sohne-lot-300-164

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.275.html

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003298

https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/101404

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028350

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.7.html

200K and Under:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003385

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028355

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.272.html

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/watches-l16053/lot.140.html

https://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/97620

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/97159

Unlimited:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028459

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/100888

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.317.html

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97683

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97817

Wildcard:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5976969?ldp_breadcrumb=back

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101552

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-005-ultraman-omega-seamaster-321

Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen in. Plus an only wrist for a Patek AD. 

Links Mentioned: 

5516:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar

John Shaeffer Collecting Guide:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/buying-selling-collecting-john-shaeffer-repeaters

25881 Explainer:

https://singaporewatchclub.com/blogs/articles/john-shaeffer-ap-s-best-kept-secret

25881 Purple Dial:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-25881

Ceramic-Link Bamboo ref. 66192 & 66172:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--cd79969e-bfab-495f-8049-3a18d16e361a/ap-chronicles-image.webp

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-bamboo-ref-66172ba-gold-diamond-set-quartz-wristwatch-24/165533

5072:

https://www.db1983.com/product-page/audemars-piguet-5072st-vzssc-37mm-1955

5503:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-archives-of-audemars-piguet

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-vacheron-minute-repeater-at-christies (Scroll Down Here)

831:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/183251?fromSearch=831

Collaboration Work with Cartier:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080515/233 (Erik was Wrong, Henry is in fact American not English!)

https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier-and-audemars-piguet/221688?fromSearch=audemars%20piguet%20cartier&searchPage=1

1533:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/90520

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/122598

25681PT ‘Clover’:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/quantieme-perpetuel-clover-asprey

5661 / ref. 25661 Tuscan:

https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-tuscan/

25557:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel16_2v2 (Rightmost)

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/reference-25557ba-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar

5548:

https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatique

AP Calibre 2003:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/calibre/Calibre-2003

5093BC:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gubelin-signed-5093bc-audemars-piguet-disco-volante

A l’Emeraude QP:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080424/145

(Which Inspired this https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/)

5740:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar

6196P:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation

5270:

https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold

The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician. 

Links Mentioned: 

404.032:

https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split

6105:

https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-272

Early Datejust Reading:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/

Clapton 5004R:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/HK080216/1011

2497G:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/160474

345.0809:

https://www.omegaspeedymoon.com

403.041 Yellowjacket:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080320/240

Black 5004G:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/193506

2915:

https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel

Pisa:

https://www.phillips.com/article/121350662/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-pisa

414.028:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/181134

Bao Dai:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90349

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bảo_Đại

WMT:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/wmt-(watch-experimental-unit)/202955

YG Brass Resonance:

https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinum

Yosuke & Dufour:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DScn5Qaklh4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

RRCCII:

https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two

Laurent Ferrier Phillips:

https://hairspring.com/products/hommage-ii-for-phillips-steel

5516:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel03_05v2

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texano

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3770-patek-philippe-nautellipse