Hairspring

From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention. 

Links Mentioned:

Keith Mitchell TW:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/keith-mitchell-talking-watches

333:

https://www.iconeek.com/auction-lot/vacheron-constantin-333-automatic-333-re_53e43b99be

2045:

https://www.stephaniewindsor.com/products/vacheron-constantin

https://www.bonhams.com/auction/21934/lot/195/vacheron-constantin-a-fine-18ct-white-gold-bracelet-watch-with-mint-green-dial-made-for-the-libyan-market-ref2045-circa-1976/

4072:

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/vacheron-constantin-reference-4072

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/127999

4178:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/159992

49002:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt

43040:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jump-hour-43040-yellow-gold-1

6087:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901

4764 ‘Cioccolatone’:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901

6562:

https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-steel-automatic-watch-ref-6562

6111:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633

2215:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2215-vacheron-constantin-royal-chronometer-1

https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/ronnie-fieg

43031:

https://hairspring.com/products/43031-perpetual-calendar-guilloche-dial-platinum

43032:

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

Don Pancho:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/125233

4261:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/03/vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-4261-les-collectionneurs.html

6448:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/176180

‘Renaissance’:

https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-platinum-renaissance-ref-92084-incoming?srsltid=AfmBOoqbwD5TY11FkcNSn7gSE0KMsg9fakqtpPWifw1UEGgq1vTale2U

43050:

https://hairspring.com/products/43050-mercator-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/enamel-taiwan-dial-43050-vacheron-constantin-mercator

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394747

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758993

Harmony:

https://rarist.pl/en/products/harmony-71201-saudi-arabia

Serpenti:

https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-tubogas-snake-watch-retailed-by-bulgari

30030:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minute

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/229790

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/226230

Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen. 

Cleguer:

https://cleguer.com/en-gb

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cleguer-debuts-the-inspiration-one-with-a-proprietary-innate-escapement

https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/05/cleguer-inspiration-one-review.html

https://revolutionwatch.com/mathieu-cleguer-makes-his-debut-with-the-inspiration-one-souscription/

Stéphane Pierre:

https://stephanepierre.com

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-stephane-pierre-limpetrant

https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/04/stephane-pierre-l-impetrant.html

Dann Phimphrachanh:

https://www.instagram.com/dann.phimphrachanh/?hl=en

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/08/dann-phimphrachanh-profile.html

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/an-afternoon-with-dann-phimphrachanh

https://sfwatchlover.substack.com/p/an-exclusive-profile-of-dann-phimphrachanh

Alan Birchall:

https://www.a-birchall.com

https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-alan-birchall-independent-watchmaker-piece-d-essai-no-00-artisanal-watchmaking/

https://www.isochrono.com/p/inside-tajimi-watching-a-handmade

Kallinich Claeys:

https://www.kallinichclaeys.com/en

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-visit-to-glashuttes-newest-independent

L’Atelier Bernhard:

https://www.instagram.com/l_atelier_bernard/?hl=en

https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-atelier-bernard-the-owl-bernard-van-ormelingen-bernard-braboretz-independent-watchmaking-duplex-escapement-interview/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.html

Hazemann & Monnin:

https://hazemann-monnin.ch/en/index.html

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monnin

Christian Lass:

https://www.instagram.com/christian_lass/

https://christianlass.dk

Fam al Hut:

https://www.famalhut.com/en/index.html

Mineroci:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-mineroci

Bonniksen Le Carrousel:

https://monochrome-watches.com/announcing-naissance-une-montre-4-carrousel-project-bonniksen-aeon-foundation-news/

Only Wrist:

http://www.hajimeasaoka.com/timepieces_chrinograph_EN.html

https://monochrome-watches.com/just-because-logan-kuan-rao-double-detent-escapement-prototype-unique-piece-chinese-indepenent-watchmaker/

https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold

https://thekeystone.com/products/audemars-piguet-platinum-jump-hour-minute-repeater-watch-ref-25723

While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here. 

University of Utah Hot on Journe?:

https://shorturl.at/cSCXN

6538 at Sotheby’s:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless

Petermann Bédat 2941:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html

Pinaud Chronograph:

https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/

LeComte:

https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/

A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept:

https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/

Famous Lange Service 17K Bill:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/

3970:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum

3940:

https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum

Auctions Primer:

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide

881101/01 Clapton:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compax

Patek’s March to Silicon:

https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/

Rolex Silicon:

https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/

A Great Moonphase Read:

https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-up

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titanium

https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today. 

Links Mentioned: 

Arkansas:

https://crystalbridges.org

6105G:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001

5170:

https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold

5172:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos

Tamara Ralph:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/ap-x-tamara-ralph.html

15202:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.html

VC 56:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-fiftysix-self-winding

VC Quai de L’Île:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-quai-de-lile-in-steel

Cabaret:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-cabaret-tourbillon-in-honeygold

Saxonia:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia/

NYC Watch Guy’s Analysis:

https://medium.com/@nycwatchguys/the-bull-case-for-watches-9a56450baf1e

@Niccoloy:

https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/

@Young.Brando:

https://www.instagram.com/young.brando/

WatchCharts (Hit Max Timeline):

https://watchcharts.com/watches/indexes?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email

5251 Portofino:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5251-iwc-portofino-moonphase

UJ:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-8-yellow-gold

5020:

https://www.phillips.com/article/133156594/patek-philippe-5020-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-guide

John Shaeffer:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/205999
https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/201306

Tank Monopoussoir:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cartier-cpcp-2846-tank-monopoussoir

Hamatic:

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-moritz-grossmann-hamatic-argente-pendulum-winding-calibre-106-saxony-glashutte-rose-gold-specs-price-review/

1463:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/122018

5070: 

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-5070g-014-patek-philippe-chronograph

PLM:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/

1675:

https://hairspring.com/products/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel

Odysseus:

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

Deadbeat Seconds:

https://thedeadbeatseconds.substack.com

Grantland:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grantland

Look at my *Expletive* Red Trousers:

https://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com

1815 Thin Honey:

https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold

5740:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar

5270:

https://hairspring.com/products/5270r

5374:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5374g-001

Independent Picks:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-prussian-blue-white-gold-1

https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470

2RE:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ferdinand-berthoud-fb-2re-1

Handmade:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/01/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-review.html

6238:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1

Sports Betting:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677

https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titanium

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel

Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the way. 

Links Mentioned: 

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/gunter-blumlein

The Richemont Umbrella:

https://www.richemont.com

Fabian Krone Interview:

https://people.timezone.com/mdisher/lange/fkint/fkinterview.htm

Anthony de Haas Interviews:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/history-a-lange-sohne-anthony-de-hass

https://revolutionwatch.com/lange-sohne-anthony-de-haas-zeitwerk-minute-repeater/

Tino Bobe Interviews:

https://yachtstyle.co/a-lange-sohnes-tino-bobe-on-keeping-time-with-tradition/

https://escapementmagazine.com/articles/tino-bobe-a-lange-sohne/

https://www.luxuo.com/leaders/watches-leaders/securing-the-future.html

Krone-Era Watches:

Lange 1 Tourbillon:

https://hairspring.com/products/704-025-lange-1-tourbillon-platinum

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-tourbillon/

Langematik QP:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/310-021-langematik-perpetual-calendar-yellow-gold

Double Split:

https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-double-split-rattrapante/

Tourbograph PLM:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/141658

Zeitwerk Story:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum-1

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/10/lange-zeitwerk-guide.html

Wilhelm Schmid Interviews:

https://oracleoftime.com/a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-interview/

https://www.watchpro.com/the-big-interview-a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid/

https://squaremile.com/watches/wilhelm-schmid-ceo-lange-sohne-interview/

https://www.watchonista.com/articles/interviews/chat-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-about-numbers-community-and-luxury-retail

Datograph U/D:

https://hairspring.com/products/405-035-datograph-up-down-platinum

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-tourbillon-lumen

Grand Comp:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/grand-complication

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication

2015 New Manufacture:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-opens-new-manufactory-building

Triple Split:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-triple-split-introducing

Odysseus:

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-odysseus/

Distribution:

https://revolutionwatch.com/a-lange-sohne-salons-boutiques/

Honey Gold:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/honey-gold-watches

Lumen:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/lumen

Handwerkskunst:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/handwerkskunst-editions

Favorites:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-gold

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/176317

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange-in-750-honeygold-706-050

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-i-2/lange-1-leon-martens-maastricht-reference-101-047

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/153737 

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/167254