This Is TASTE

Andrew Tarlow opened Diner in a converted railcar under the Williamsburg Bridge in 1998 and quietly rewrote the rules of American restaurant culture. Marlow & Sons, Roman’s, Achilles Heel, She Wolf Bakery—the Marlow Collective became a Brooklyn institution. Now, 25 years later, he’s crossed the bridge, opening Borgo, his first Manhattan restaurant, on East 27th Street. In this episode, Andrew’s first on our podcast, we talk about building Borgo into an instant hit as well as a quarter century of restaurant building with one of the sharpest points of view in the game.

And it’s the return of Three Things. Aliza and Matt discuss some of their recent restaurant visits, including Her Name Is Han, Border Town, Teruko, New Kam Hing. Also, new books from Rachel Khong and Alicia Kennedy.

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Journalist and cookbook author Anna Hezel returns to the show to talk ⁠Party Tricks⁠, her new cookbook built around 50 recipes for elevated snacking and relaxed hosting. Anna was a senior editor at TASTE as well as a cohost of this very show before working at Epicurious and cofounding the independent food publication ⁠Best Food Blog⁠. We dig in to her philosophy behind the art of the snack-forward meal, and why a well-stocked freezer might be the real secret to throwing a great party.

Also on the show we catch up with Jaya Saxena to hear about a new publication, ⁠Ravenous⁠, she’s launching with several former Eater editors. We hear about the mission and a few of the stories they are working on.

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Ally Walsh and Casey Wojtalewicz are the cofounders of Canyon Coffee, a Los Angeles–based specialty coffee roaster specializing in organic and Regenerative Organic Certified coffees. Their Echo Park café has been a destination ever since opening in 2022, and just a few weeks ago, they opened a second location in Brooklyn’s Prospect Heights neighborhood that’s proving to be just as popular, with pastries from Amanda Perdomo and Elbow Bread’s Zoë Kanan. Today on the show, we talk about what sets Canyon Coffee apart, why the founders chose to open a second location in New York, and how they manage the lines.

And it’s the return of Three Things. Aliza and Matt discuss some of their recent restaurant visits, including Chainsaw, Quarter Sheets, and Seong Buk Dong in Los Angeles and Dame in New York. Also, Malai Ice Cream does amazing mail order and Jury Duty is back with a company retreat.

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Ask any serious diner in New York about who built the city’s Italian restaurant culture, and Michael White’s name comes up fast. Marea. Ai Fiori. Alto. A James Beard Award. Multiple Michelin stars. Then silence. White left New York during the COVID-19 pandemic, regrouped, and returned with Santi, a sleek Midtown restaurant serving exceptional hand-crafted pasta and crudos in the space where Alto once stood. In this episode, we talk about his Wisconsin roots, studying Italian cuisine for nearly three decades, and what a real second act looks like.

Also on the show, we have a great conversation with Eric Bedroussian. He’s a cofounder of the terrific Los Angeles izakaya Budonoki and we talk his time working in the Houston's organization, and about what it takes to build a buzzy, sustainable restaurant group in the modern era. 

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Hafiz Mangalji is the founder of Hyunah Coffee Club, a reservations-only members’ space tucked into a Greenpoint, Brooklyn, studio where serious home brewers and industry obsessives come to use equipment many can’t afford to own themselves, drink coffees from roasters they’ve been following for years, and hang out with other people who care about water chemistry. In other words, this is completely our shit. For $30 a month, you get access to Weber Workshops grinders, Decent Espresso machines, a rotating global roaster marketplace, and a hi-fi sound system. It’s not a café. It’s not a class. It’s a club—and Hafiz talks about why that distinction matters.

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