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"Chronometer" is one term that frequently comes up in watchmaking. We see it stamped on dials, highlighted in marketing materials, and often used as a synonym for "high quality." But how much does chronometer certification actually matter to us as collectors? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Daan and RJ to unpack the role of this certification in modern watch collecting. Is it something we actively look for? Does it influence buying decisions? Or is it one of those things that sounds more important than it feels in daily wear?

We all have watches we absolutely love but would hesitate to recommend to someone else. That might sound contradictory at first, but spend enough time in this hobby, and it starts to make sense. Not every great watch is universally great. Some require a certain mindset, a specific wrist, or simply a willingness to embrace their quirks. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Daan, and RJ discuss precisely those watches — the ones they enjoy for themselves but wouldn’t necessarily suggest as a safe buy for others. It’s a conversation about nuance, experience, and the difference between appreciation and recommendation.

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We've had these types of chats before, but it's always nice to see what we've missed. You'll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new to you.
While both of us have a penchant for vintage Rolex, Heuer, and other well-known marques, our love for vintage brands is universal. Whether it's a cool piece from a one-hit wonder or an everyman's watch company that made some seriously good stuff, we're up for it. Today, we'll mention some oft-overlooked opportunities to grab some of that vintage goodness.
Handgelenkskontrolle
We begin our show with a discussion about Mike's home state, Florida. Then, we move on to television, where Balazs has been watching Tehran, Hijack, and His & Hers. Meanwhile, Mike has engaged his '90s youth with Love Story. For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs is wearing his trusty vintage Rolex 5513 Submariner after his latest journey. Mike has been exploring modern watches lately due to the never-ending rain in the UK. This week, he's wearing his Aquastar Benthos H2.
Vintage brands worth looking into
There are fantastic opportunities within the watch hobby to enjoy great pieces at an affordable price. Sure, a vintage Rolex or Patek Philippe is a wonderful thing to own. However, with high prices, scary fakes, and the risk of loss as ever-present concerns, it's worthwhile to look elsewhere. Today, we're focused on vintage brands that don't get much attention but still offer loads of value and satisfaction.
We start our discussion with Bulova, a once-mighty Swiss-American brand that's thriving again under Citizen's ownership. Still, aside from a few pricey key chronographs and dive watches from the 60s, this high-volume brand has some gems that are very easy to find and affordable. With in-house movements and enough styles to fill a museum, there's likely something for everyone.
Roamer is another brand that receives almost no attention from collectors. This is a shame because the company made some truly high-quality and uniquely designed watches. Signed crystals, monobloc cases, and NSA bracelets are just some of the goodness one can find.
Wittnauer is another interesting case. Longines formerly owned the brand, and it is now another entrant in the Citizen stable. Here again, aside from a few select chronographs and an interesting electronic watch, there are oodles of fantastic references available for little money. In particular, see the military or military-inspired pieces.
Loads of options
We also discuss another Swiss-American brand, Gruen. From the Curvex to later models, there are plenty of great options. Similarly, check out bygone house brands from American jewelry and department stores. Companies such as Baylor (a Zales brand) or Le Gant (from Montgomery Ward) are often great places to find watches from more famous marques, like Heuer.
Finally, there's Mido, a brand that used fancy

Spend enough time around watches, whether at events, in boutiques, or just talking to fellow enthusiasts, and you start to notice the same talking points coming up again and again. Certain topics seem to define how we think about watches today. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Lex and RJ to unpack those recurring conversations. The idea for the episode came to Lex while chatting with a friend and watchmaker in Geneva, a reminder that even at the heart of the industry, the same themes keep resurfacing. From in-house movements to size, heritage, and hype, the trio explores what really drives modern watch conversations and the impact these exchanges can have on the industry.

It’s a question that comes up from time to time in today’s watch world: Does resale value affect how much you enjoy a watch? With secondary market prices discussed almost as frequently as specifications, it’s hard to ignore the financial side of collecting. In this episode of Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho discuss whether resale value changes the way we approach watches. Does strong value retention make a watch easier to enjoy, or does thinking about future resale quietly undermine the whole point of wearing one?