Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you.
In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance.
We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better technique, movement economy, breathing, and confidence can dramatically improve your endurance before you ever change your fitness.
Next, we dive into the physiology of climbing performance, breaking down the differences between aerobic endurance, anaerobic power endurance, and maximum strength—and why all three must be trained if you want to reach your climbing potential. I explain how to structure your training using route climbing, treadwall intervals, spray wall workouts, bouldering circuits, and submaximal volume sessions to build endurance the smart way instead of simply climbing until your forearms explode.
Whether you're training for your first 5.12, projecting steep sport routes, preparing for long days at the crag, or simply looking for the most effective climbing training methods backed by exercise science and decades of coaching experience, this episode is packed with practical strategies you can apply immediately. If you're serious about becoming a stronger, more durable, and more efficient climber, this is an episode you'll want to save, revisit, and share with your climbing partners.
If you love the T4C podcast, please leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a friend or climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors
 Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on  La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the   EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Cover photo: by Caleb Timmerman
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave.
What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop.
In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron  unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the breakthroughs that finally moved the needle, and the lessons any climber can apply to their own long-term goals—whether you're projecting 5.10 or 5.15.
One of the most fascinating takeaways is that the breakthrough wasn't a sudden gain in finger strength or power. Instead, it came from years of accumulated training adaptations, comprehensive energy system development, improved recovery, refined tactics, and learning when not to climb. Cameron shares how he finally broke through a plateau that had stalled his progress for multiple seasons.
RUNDOWN
2:00 – What Does It Feel Like to Send a Multi-Year Project?
5:00 – Inside Utah's Incredible Fin Cave
7:00 – Anatomy of the "Big Bone" Project
9:50 – Why the Route is So Difficult
12:00 – Cameron's Three-Year Journey on the Route
13:50 – Breaking Through a Plateau
16:40 – Training Lessons from Big Bone
18:00 – Recovery: The Secret Weapon
21:00 – Sending on the Second Try
24:10 - Energy System Training and the benefits of becoming more fat adapted
26:00 – Mental Growth and Performance Psychology
28:30 - Discovery of Fin Cave
31:30 – The Evolution of "Bone Tomahawk" and "Big Bone"
32:00 – Friendship and Mentorship with Joe Kinder
34:20 – Balancing University, Life, and Elite Climbing
40:00 – The Importance of Partners and Community
44:00 - Debating 5.15a versus 5.15b -- how to grade a hard FA?
47:30 - Ultimately, the grade isn't important -- the journey is what counts!
48:10  – Coaching, Exercise Science, and Helping Others
Follow and contact Cameron on Instagram @cam_horst
Visit Cam's website at: www.CameronHorst.com
49:28 – What's Next?
51:05 – Eric's summarizes 8 Key Tips and Takeaways from this interview.
54:30 - Sponsor Discount: 
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
56:00 -⭐ Enjoy the podcast?
Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!
56:40 - Hörst Out!
Podcast Sponsors
 Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on  La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the   EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this inspiring new "Weekend Crushers" feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it's a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren't ideal.
Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply need a reminder that long-term consistency still wins, I think you'll find Jessica's story deeply motivating. Her journey proves that you don't need perfect circumstances to pursue extraordinary goals—you just need commitment, structure, and the willingness to keep showing up.
Key Inspirational Takeaways for Climbers Living Far from Rock
1. Your location does not define your potential.
Jessica proves that you do not need to live in Boulder, Salt Lake, or Chattanooga to become a high-level climber. Smart training, consistency, and strategic travel can close much of the gap.
2. Training with intention matters more than perfect access.
Because she can't climb outdoors weekly, Jessica trains with incredible specificity—adjusting board angles, targeting pocket strength for Wyoming trips, and using power-endurance circuits to prepare for the Red River Gorge.
3. Passion fuels discipline.
Long drives, limited outdoor mileage, inconsistent weather, and balancing work obligations would discourage many climbers. But Jessica's love for climbing continues to drive her effort year after year.
4. Progress is rarely linear.
Even highly prepared climbers experience setbacks, regressions, injuries, and emotional struggles. Near-sends and failures are often part of the process—not signs that the goal is impossible.
5. Build a life that supports your passion.
Jessica intentionally shaped her career and lifestyle around climbing freedom. Rather than waiting for ideal circumstances, she created systems that allowed climbing to remain central in her life.
6. Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity.
Jessica's breakthrough wasn't the result of one magical training cycle. It was built over 16 years of climbing, coaching, learning, traveling, and steadily improving.
7. Community matters.
The interview highlights how supportive partners, climbing friends, coaches, and mentors can make a huge difference—especially for climbers who live far from outdoor destinations.
⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors
 Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on  La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the   EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what's possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron's journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45.
This is more than a comeback story—it's a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any age.
Here are a few key takeaways from this episode:
Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity
You can come back stronger—even after years (or decades) away
Progress isn't linear—trust that small gains will accumulate and compound
Build a system that fits your life, so that you an excel in all the important areas
Strength-to-weight matters—but proper fueling matters more
Community enhances both performance and enjoyment
Climbing longevity is real—with the right mindset and approach
I'm confident you'll find this episode both highly informative and deeply inspiring.
⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps
0:15 – Intro & Series Launch
4:05 – Aaron Shamy backstory
7:45 – Life Happens: Family & Hiatus
12:45 – The Comeback Begins (age 38)
15:05 – Rebuilding from Scratch
26:00 – "Flight of the Conchords" Project and the Pyramid Strategy
33:00 – The Days, Weeks, Months Projecting "Flight"...
36:00 – Training and Non-Linear Progress
38:30 – Nutrition & Weight Loss Transformation
44:00 – Aaron's 3 Keys to Success
46:10 – Community & Support System
48:20 – What's Next?
54:15 - Final Takeaways & Key Points
⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors
 Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on  La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the   EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected.
In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn't guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced, and mentally demanding game than climbing indoors.
Eric introduces a powerful framework for understanding this transition and delivers five actionable strategies to help you quickly regain movement efficiency, sharpen your mental game, and unlock your true performance potential outside. If you want to turn your winter training gains into real sends this season, this is a must-listen episode.
⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps
[0:15] Intro + The Spring Reality Check
[2:20] The Big Truth: Strength ≠ Performance (Yet)
[4:00] Gym vs. Outdoor Climbing—Critical Differences
[7:40] The Real Limiter: Inefficiency
Podcast Sponsors
 Thank you to La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at  PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the  EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
🔑 Gym to Crag Transition Strategies
[12:30] Strategy #1: Treat Early Sessions as Pre-Season
[15:05] Strategy #2: Prioritize Volume Over Difficulty
[17:00] Strategy #3: Reframe Projecting Early Season
[20:45] Strategy #4: Rebuild Technical & Mental Skills
[25:28] Strategy #5: Be Patient—Trust the Process
⚠️ Important Considerations
[28:20] Injury Risk During Transition
🧠 Wrap-Up
[32:30] Final Takeaways
Efficiency is the gateway to performance
Build volume, refine movement, stay patient
Your strength is there—unlock it on the rock
⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors
Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the  EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.